Exclusive Penny Loafer in Cordovan from Oscar Jacobson x Gentlemanualen

Oscar Jacobson x Gentlemanualen - Penny Loafer Cordovan

After successful collaborations on ties, tuxedo bows, patent loafers, and coats, it's time for the next launch in the partnership between Oscar Jacobson and the style platform Gentlemanualen. This time, gentlemen Weinås and Nilsson highlight one of the most luxurious materials in footwear: a refined penny loafer crafted from the legendary cordovan leather.

More specifically, this means that the leather in this season’s shoe is Shell Cordovan—a premium material sourced from the fibrous membrane (or "shell") between the horse’s rump muscles and its outer hide. The leather in our shoes originates from Galicia, and the name "cordovan" actually comes from the Spanish city of Córdoba, historically known for its prestigious tanning industry.

So, what makes cordovan such an exclusive material in shoemaking? First and foremost, its durability is nearly unmatched. The natural oils in the leather make it both easy to maintain and highly resistant to external wear and frequent use. Unlike calfskin, it does not require the same level of regular care. Much of this is due to the material’s inherent properties, as well as the unique tanning process that the hides undergo.

Aesthetically, cordovan also sets itself apart from traditional calf leather with its characteristic soft, rounded creases that develop over time and its natural high shine, which can be effortlessly enhanced with a few strokes of a horsehair brush.

Perhaps the most significant reason for the cordovan’s premium price is the limited availability of the material. The membrane used from the horse’s hindquarters is typically enough for just one pair of shoes per animal, making it one of the most exclusive leathers in the shoe and leather industry.

Gentlemanualen has designed a classic penny loafer with a construction and material built for a lifetime of wear. With the right care, these shoes have the potential to become a staple in any footwear collection for decades to come.

The Goodyear-welted construction of Gentlemanualen’s cordovan loafers extends 360 degrees around the entire sole, allowing for efficient resoling and exceptional longevity. In addition to a cork filling, the shoe features memory foam insoles for a comfortable and adaptive fit. The gentleman’s corner, a refined detail on the inner edge of the heel, minimizes the risk of tripping, while the brass toe taps add both durability and an extra touch of exclusivity.

The Oscar Jacobson x Gentlemanualen penny loafer in cordovan is handcrafted in the small Spanish mountain town of Almansa, a region with a deep-rooted tradition of fine shoemaking. Despite modern advancements in production, each pair still passes through over 100 skilled hands over the course of two days before completion.

For this launch, Gentlemanualen has chosen to produce the shoes in black cordovan rather than the traditional burgundy shade often associated with the material. This choice reflects their belief that these shoes are for the discerning wearer who appreciates subtle yet intentional details. They also argue that a black penny loafer is one of the most versatile shoes a man can own—easily transitioning from formal dark suits to casual summer styling with light or black denim.