The perfect fit | Oscar Jacobson
Regular fit - The perfect fit
Journalist Daniel Lindström interviewed our Collection Manager Carl-Johan Frisk and designer Fredrik Blank about fit and how we see the trend moving from tight to more relaxed. What is the most important thing to consider when buying a new jacket? Answer: Size and fit.
Three different fits
Oscar Jacobson offers three different fits – slim, regular and generous. Slim has a narrow silhouette, regular is more loose and generous has more space, and is narrower and wider. These last few years, the fashion image has gone from being dominated by a tight fit to becoming more relaxed and comfortable. In Oscar Jacobson's case, it means that a few centimeters have been added to the widths in the regular fit, which means that the wearer experiences more comfort.
- It is a result of customer demand and the fashion image in general. The shift has been going on for a few years, but in men's fashion such changes take a little longer, explains Carl-Johan Frisk, collection manager at Oscar Jacobson.
Historically, men’s fashion change every ten years
+ In the 1960’s, inspired by pop and rock bands such as The Beatles and The Rolling Stones, a new generation started wearing suits. The suits were straight and slim.
+ In the 1970’s, the slim trousers of the 1960’s became flared and the lapels became wide and big.
+ The 1980’s were characterized by "power dressing" - broad shoulders, double-breasted and pinstripe.
+ The 1990’s were not a heyday for the dressy style. Anti-fashion and grunge reigned and the suits were baggy in shape.
+ In 2001, designer Hedi Slimane once again changed the silhouette of men's fashion when he presented "ultra-skinny" suits for the French fashion house Dior. The slim silhouette has since been the most prominent – until a few years ago.
- Going from a slim fit to a slightly wider one is not as dramatic as it might sound. The wearer will primarily experience more comfort, the look itself is not affected that much, continues Carl-Johan Frisk.
- The regular fitted blazers in Oscar Jacobson's range start with the letter "F", for example "Farris" and "Ferry". They give a more relaxed impression and more space has been given around the shoulders, chest and waist.
- I always say that a perfect blazer should hug the customer in a soft way. It should look as if it was hung on the body, not forced on, says Fredrik Blank, longtime designer at Oscar Jacobson.
Fredrik Blank believes that it is not just popular culture and fashion designers that have influenced the male silhouette, the contemporary body image also plays a large part.
- A lot of men have worn tight clothes to show off their body. We live in a time where many people work out in gyms and people like to show that off. A slim suit can of course be super stylish, but it shouldn't make the trouser legs crumple or sit tight. I would recommend anyone who has worn a slim fit to test one that’s a bit wider in fit and find that the look becomes more elegant. But above all, and most importantly, it is much more convenient.
But there are also other advantages to a slightly wider fit according to Carl-Johan Frisk and Fredrik Blank. For example, that it is easier to wear different types of clothing underneath.
- If you have a very tight blazer, it is difficult to wear anything other than a shirt or t-shirt underneath, but with a slightly looser fit, there is room for a knitted sweater or a turtle neck, you simply get more styling options and can "dress up” and “dress down” your suit, Carl-Johan explains.
Fredrik Blank continues:
- No matter the fashion trends, it is first and foremost always about the comfort, the feeling of being comfortable and relaxed. If the wearer feels good wearing his suit, he will exude elegance and confidence.